Sewing techniques
Sewing a Seam
Sewing seams is a task common to almost every sewing project. Getting a nice even straight seam makes your work look just that little bit better, here are some tips on how to run seams.
Seam Finishes: Seams are usually made with a zigzag stitch, this is the most commonly used finish. If this stitch is not available you can turn the fabric back on itself again and machine stitch the fold.
The left over seam allowance is pressed open on some seams but on many seams this can be trimmed to reduce bulk, and trimmed in layers for heavier weight materials. Seam allowances on curves may need to be clipped in areas to allow it to open and fold back comfortably along the intended curve.
Cross Seams: This is where an existing seam is stitched across by another seam. On some heavier fabrics you may need to snip the corners at an angle to allow the seams to lie flat.
Notching: Notching is cutting little 'V' shapes into the seam allowance, usually on outside curves and these help the fabric to lie flat when turned the right way out.
Under-stitching: Under-stitching is stitching the seam again to the fabric in order to prevent the seam allowance rolling the wrong way. This can be done by machine with a straight stitch or by hand using a back-stitch.
Set a Seam Guide: Most sewing machines have these along side the needle in a metal finish but you can add your own using specially bought ones or even just sticky notes in colours that are easier to see.
Measure from the needle the seam length you intend to use (for example 1/2 inch) and place the seam guage/sticky note at this point. For sewing curves you can use another sticky note and put its corner at the right length to the right and behind the needle. This gives a point to follow as you turn the fabric round as you sew.
Pin a seam: Sometimes it can be shorter and easier in the long run to take the time to pin your seams before tacking.
Lay the fabric down and match up the edges of the intended seams. Using a measure tape to ensure the pins are the right spacing from the edge, pin along with the pins facing down from the edge. Then tack along the bottom of the pins. You can remove the pins before sewing the seam, and then remove the tacking thread.
Reverse stitch a Seam: This will ensure your seams will never come undone. Can be a pain to unpick if needed though!
Start the machine needle a few centimetres away from the intended start of the seam on the fabric edge. Reverse stitch to the start and then switch to forward stitch and complete the seam. The reverse stitch at the end a few centimetres back. To turn a corner on seam stop at the edge of the corner. Lift the machine foot and pivot the material around the needle will it is facing in the required direction, then continue stitching. This will give a sharp corner depending on the material weight and type.
Heavy seams: Rub seams with a bar of soap to allow a sewing machine needle to easily pass through.